If a fix hasn’t made it to Stable yet, then switching to Experimental is the appropriate action to get the game functioning. Just keep in mind that if a ProtonDB review is old but mentions Experimental, then most likely the fix is in Stable by now and switching to Experimental might not be needed anymore. In those cases I’d try the latest Stable first, and then try Experimental if that doesn’t work for some reason.

Keeping note of specific Proton versions is more important if someone says that an older Proton version works better than new ones for reasons. Or if they’re using a forked version of Proton, like GE-Proton, it’s important because that fork explicitly includes things not in normal Proton, like exotic video format support that Valve can’t normally include for legal reasons.

Not SteamDeck, but there is evidence that Valve is working on x86-ARM emulation for a stand-alone VR Headset.

FYI, if you switch to Desktop mode on SteamOS, all those applications you listed are available via the included app store that taps into Flathub. SteamOS also ships with Firefox out of the box. I have them all installed on my SteamDeck already.

I agree on durability concerns, but it did double the height of the display. Not sure how much bigger you’re expecting.

Experimental is its name for a reason. It’s for testing fixes which may or may not fix an issue that they’re investigating. If the fix doesn’t cause any immediate issues they’ll then push it to stable.

So you should really only use Experimental if you have a game or game update that just came out and isn’t running correctly in Stable.

To simplify these are the TLDR ranking:

• Stable

• Next (ie: Release Candidate, last bug fix check before pushing to stable)

• Experimental (ie: Beta, latest fixes that are being tested)

• Bleeding Edge (ie: Alpha, automated merges for the latest submitted code from devs, things can easily break)

• Hotfix (For quick bandaid fixes for specific popular games that just released or just updated with some breaking incompatibility.)

I’ve been messing with more recent open-source AI Subtitling models via Subtitle Editor which has a nice GUI for it. Quality is much better these days, at least for English. It still makes mistakes, but the mistakes are on the level of “I misheard what they said and had little context for the conversation” or “the speaker has an accent which makes it hard to understand what they’re saying” mistakes, which is way better than most YouTube Auto Transriptions I’ve seen.

I didn’t even realize Intel’s SSD business still survived as a separate company. Apparently they’re owned by SK Hynix.

Yes! I use less all the time, combine it with grep, etc.

Yeah, to this day vim still isn’t intuitive for me, so I just use nano as it’s either often included or simple to install on most Distros.

Unless a script is hardcoded for vim I haven’t had to use it.

Because you made sure the cable is rated for more than what you’re using it for. The problem is when somebody doesn’t do that. A 60W cable hooked up to a 120W power supply, for example.

The sad part is that the upcoming administration might be stupid enough to try and implement this.

Also why I invested in the hardware and software for Blu-ray ripping. I now have a Pioneer drive in a USB enclosure, and can now rip even 4K Blu-rays from any region. So many special features I was missing out on, though a lot of disc releases are cheaping out on them these days.

Only annoying part about ripping is the freaking maze of playlists on many Blu-rays, especially for Special Features, and none of the player software I’ve tried yet has a feature to tell you what playlist and video file you’re currently watching. So you basically have to rip everything and then check each video file afterwards.

Pretty much. Give me a screen for Android Auto so I can interact with my preferred navigation and media apps, and then just let me control the car.

Like, if you want to add a menu for low-level tweaking of stuff I don’t need(or shouldn’t change) while driving, sure(like suspension settings). But for everything else, AC, seat warmers, forward/reverse, windshield wipers, headlights, etc, I want a button or knob.

So far all the Roku TVs I’ve tried will let you skip setting up Internet on them and then default to a dumbed down mode where the Homescreen is just TV inputs, and you can access the settings menu. Haven’t had a chance to test a recent Android/Google TV.

Update: Seems Sony, TCL, and maybe some other Android/Google TV makers allow using the TV without linking a Google Account.

https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/articles/00115361

https://support.tcl.com/us-androidtv-common-questions/do-i-need-to-have-a-google-account-to-enjoy-android-tv-58

https://support.tcl.com/can-i-just-use-basic-tv-on-a-tcl-google-tv

Update 2: Samsung seems to let you skip logging into their TVs during setup via a Skip button in the top-right corner, but it’s unclear if you can skip connecting to the Internet at all.

Mostly. None of the browser extensions work on Windows, which is really annoying.

That tip of a handle bar that makes you wonder if that square counts or not.

Yep, had basically a throw away account for the occasional thing that basically required a Facebook account, and then I guess because I never posted anything they locked my account and demanded ID. Hell no.

I’m wondering the same thing for Valve and Gabe Newell.

MSF2020 runs offline too, it’s even sold on discs in certain regions. You just don’t get any of the satellite imagery or live weather. Obviously that means a degraded experience, but it still works.